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Events, gear sales, parties, celebrity sightings:Send info to : news@rockies-ice.com
Mountain Conditions Site-ACMG I am pleased to announce the new public Mountain Conditions Report.
A group of trained and certified, professional guides with support from the
Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) has launched the "Mountain
Conditions Report" (MCR). The MCR consists of field observations made by
trained and certified professional guides.
Reports are posted on an irregular basis, when guides see something worth
noting. In addition, we endeavour to provide a weekly synopsis every
Thursday evening or Friday morning which summarizes general conditions.
All reports and synopses are prepared and submitted by guides on a volunteer
basis and the ACMG provides administrative and technical support to make
public presentation of this information possible.
The goal of making this information available to the public is to assist
recreational mountaineers in planning their trips and aid the process of
making reasonable, informed decisions when in the field.
You can use the MCR in two ways:
- subscribe to receive bleeding edge reports straight to your inbox
- look through the MCR postings with your web browser.
For more information and to sign up, visit http://acmg.ca/mcr
Melting Mountains Website Information on the state of the glacial ecology, relevant to climbers and all living creatures on the planet.
http://www.meltingmountains.org
"The Wild Thing" Repeated Rob Owens and Mike Verway quietly completed an ascent of this testpiece on Mt. Chephrens 5000ft East Face.
Constant spindrift, hard climbing, a lead fall, 2 bivies out, and summitting in a whiteout made this a fine ascent in good Rockies tradition.
Second Spot Available for March 4,5,6 ice Trip Jen Yu is open to a second suitably matched partner joining her and her guide for March 4,5,6.
Cost will be 275Cdn per day.
Entry level trip, focus on advancing climbing technique, Grade 3 mulitpitch climbs, and a whole lot of fun.
Contact info@rockies-ice.com 604-319-4657 for details.
2005 Ouray Ice Comp Results -Rob Owens takes 4th. Ouray wrapped up with Rockies Ice Guide Rob Owens placing 4th in Mens Difficulty. Awesome job Rob! Rob is currently sending splitter cracks in Indian Creek Utah before returning to the Rockies in Febuary for the remainder of the season.
No. TIME
1 22:47 WILL GADD
2 23:10 HARRY BERGER
3 14:10 SEAN ISAAC
4 21:20 ROB OWENS
Comedy Clip - Biased View of History of Climbing Good for a laugh:
http://
History of Big Wall Climbing
Man on Fire See some of the best new ice/alpine lines put up over the last two seasons at:
Raph's Homepage
How(notTo)ClimbUnderSeracs First Off, a serac is a section of glacial ice, suspend above terrain. Often they cap cliff bands, and they draw climbers attentions, both because they feed ice climbs below, or are attractions as steep ice climbs themselves(Rights of Passage for eg.)
Second Off, never climb under a serac! They are all unstable, unpredictable, potential death inducing objects! Climbing under a serac is a game of Russian Roulette. Period.
However, here are my observations on some aspects of the game, that people (usually males age 19-29) play.
Firstly, be honest with yourself. Admit that the route could kill you, and that you want the climb bad enough to justify that(or not- many have turned tail from the base of such routes).
Assess just how volatile the seracs are. Scope(bino's)it out. Are they jagged and overhanging, cracked and 100's of meters high? or laid back and smooth -their condition tells you something.
Check out the base, is it littered with fresh debris, pilled high with debris from constant 'calving', or relatively undisturbed?
Spend a few days observing the line, talk to others about what they've seen. You will never want to climb Slipstream after you here about all the close calls (and deaths on the route) despite how cool the guidebook makes it seem.
Temperatures- Think of how ice climbs act in different temperatures- Is it any surprise that seracs are affected as well? Seracs will be more active during extreme temperatures (roughly below -25 or above +15) and during times of rapid temperature flucuations.
Speed, speed, speed.- that and luck are your only chances to live and succeed.
You are trying to minimize your exposure time to the hazard. This means gearing up in a safe zone, I know of someone who lost everything but their lives foolishly gearing up at the base of the route in the direct fall zone! Be 100percent go when you enter the hazard zone, this is not the time to be adjusting your crampons.
Cut corners: solo, simulcimb, one screw anchors, run it out, you should be operating near your cardio max when seconding(and leading), up,up,up.
Pick the right day. Snow conditions need to perfect(fast), temps, viz, you need to be dialled, fit, and psyched.
In short, everything should line up to your advantage, and you should be aware of the truth of the matter. By that I mean that those who climb under seracs in ignorance or denial are fools, those who realize the risk and choose to accept it are justified in their decision, both stand a chance of gaining self knowledge, both risk to lose everything.
Canmore Ice Festival The annual Ice Fest is up and running, and Rockies Ice Specialists is proud to be a sponsor. Running from Thursday March 3 to Sunday March 6, featuring speed comps, climbing clinics and gear demo's, as well as the party of the year with DJ Chang.
For the whole package visit:
IceFest
See you there,
Sean
Rally for Railay
We just wanted to spread the word regarding fundraising events to contribute funds to the Railay Bay area of Thailand following the Tsunami. Please feel free to pass along to your friends and family. Railay was fortunate in that there were very few tourist deaths; however businesses and long tail boats were destroyed, and some boatmen died. On Ko Phi Phi, there was a considerable destruction and many Thai locals and tourists lost their lives. Economically, this area is dire need of assistance. The money donated by governments and aid organizations is not expected to reach the Railay, Ao Nang and Ko Phi Phi areas as assistance efforts are being focused on areas with a higher level of devastation, such as nearby Phuket.
There will be a gathering to raise money for the most needy locals of Thailand’s Railay Bay, Ton Sai, Ao Nang, and Phi Phi Island whose homes, clothing, boats, livelihoods, relatives and friends were lost in the tsunami. 100% of money raised will go directly to the local people, the re-building of boats, small businessmen, climbing guides, local orphanages, and the families left behind.
Please join us at:
The Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies – Banff, on Friday, Jan 21st 4pm – 8 pm
And
The Canmore Miner’s Union Hall – Canmore, on Sunday, January 23rd – 4 pm – 9 pm
The events will feature a rolling powerpoint presentation of Thailand – then and now, a presentation on the damage, the present conditions, the priority of needs and the plans for the funds, a Silent Auction, an opportunity to sign reams of Thai silk which will be sent with the donations and used by the locals to honor their boats, shrines, and homes…and of course, a Cash Bar!
Your support is greatly appreciated…every little bit counts!
If you can't make it that weekend please feel free to mail in your donations.
Cheques payable to the "Rally for Railay Fund" (CND and US funds are accepted.)
Mailing address:
Rally for Railay Fund
P.O. Box 987,
Banff, AB
T1L 1A9
Canada
Any questions contact , Barb Clemes at (403)678-6489 or
Michelle Garbert at (403)762-4987 or (403)760-0093
How To Build An Ice Wall For a kinda funny example of how they build ice climbs in Alaska visit:
http://www.alaskanalpineclub.org/IceWall/04-05IceWall1.html
HowToStayWarm!! Allright, this cold snap has gone on for to long, so here are some tips on how to stay warm on frigid days(beyond sitting in the hot tub drinking lattes)
-Chemical Handwarmers- mandatory!Load them up in the car, before you need them, why get frozen digits to begin with?
-Plastic Boots-My leathers max out at -20, below that I slip into my cozy Plastics with closed cell foam Intuition Liners.
-Hydration-Being hydrated is key to warm digits! No one likes to drink when its cold, so superhydrate in the morning. This keeps the plasma viscous and will do you a world of good.
-Supplements-One Gingko Biloba, and one Cayenne pepper pill each morning.
-No restricitve clothes- Loose boot laces, thicker, looser gloves, loose leashes, loose drawchords on the cuffs, let the blood flow people!
-Pre-warm the hands before heading up the pitch. Windmail the arms and drive the blood to the fingertips, even if the feel fine, before you climb. -It sucks getting cold hands halfway up.
-Second/lead pitches without leashes cinched/attached. Increases blood flow and makes it easy to shake out.
-Climb fast!
Funny,funny Translation. To get the "pimp" version of ice guiding, cut and past this link, and laugh away:
http://www.psyclops.com/translator/translator.cgi?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rockies-ice.com&mode=pimp
Ice Screws Sale Charlet Mosser laser Sonic, 17cm, 10cm
2 years old, teeth have been resharpened
Good Condition
35.00cdn each
sean@rockies-ice.com
Powder Paradise Slide Show Saturday December 18 7pm
Powder Paradise: Backcountry Skiing in Western Canada
A Slide Show by Chic Scott
@ Mountain Magic - Banff AB
$5 entry
Cold Beer!!
Presented by: Mountain Magic Equipment
Info: Climbing Dept @ 403-762-2591 or info@mountainmagic.com
Nordegg Ice Festival The good old Nordegg Ice Fest is happening again this year. Rockies Ice Specialist is one of the event sponsors. Located out on the David Thompson Hwy., this is a great amatuer event and promises good times for non-competitors as well as those going for the glory.
More info at:
www.coe.ca/icefest
Climb the TERMINATOR!!! The elusive "Terminator" and famous "Sea of Vapors" are in fat this year and being climbed daily. "Ten Years After", another rarely formed mixed route is also formed and completely ice. Contact us now to discuss a guided ascent!!!
Rockies Ice Specialists Launch New Website Rockies Ice Specialists are proud to launch their new website. Complete with up to the minute news and weather as well as current conditions of ice routes in the Rockies.
ICE GEAR SALE
Contact: Scott Semple
ssemple@telusplanet.net
FOR SALE (All Black Diamond)
New gear is 66% of retail, used gear is 33%
PACKS
Stealth 45 (NEW) - $145
Speed 28 - $40
SuperSlacker Rope Bag - $30
TOOLS (all with new picks)
Fusions (LIKE NEW) - $230 each
Vipers (with Fangs) - $100 each
Viper Androids (NEW) - $10 each
Raven Pro - $45
EXPRESS SCREWS
4 x 10cm - $25 each
10 x 13cm - $25 each
4 x 18cm - $25 each
2 x 22cm - $25 each
PICKS
3 Laser picks (NEW, CEN - B) - $30 each
4 Titan picks (NEW, CEN - T) - $30 each
2 Fusion picks (NEW, CEN - T) - $30 each
1 Titan pick (some use) - $15
CRAMPONS
2004 Sabretooths (NEW) - $115
2004 SabreTooths (Used 8 days) - $100
Original Sabretooths (NEW) - $100
Original Sabretooth (NEW, but only one foot!) - $30
Original Sabretooths (two pair, worn frontpoints, good for general mountaineering) - $30 per pair
Bionics - $70
BD Bolt-ons (NEW, with t-nuts and mounting instructions) - $115
Fruit Boots (LIKE NEW, bolt-ons on a stripped Freney XT) - $350
Also lots of extra bails, bars and straps available
HEADLAMPS
Ion (small LED) - $10
Supernova (LIKE NEW, halogen & LED) - $55
Xenix (NEW, Hyperbright LED) - $38
HARNESSES
2004 Blizzard (LIKE NEW) - $60
HELMETS
2004 Half Dome (LIKE NEW, orange) - $50
GLOVES
2004 Modern Mixed glove (NEW) - $50
MIXED CLINICS!!! Sign up soon! Rockies Ice Specialists, notably professional guides and climbers Sean Easton and Rob Owens are organizing several Introductory and Advanced Mixed Clinics throughout the upcoming winter.
No matter what your level we have a clinic for you!!
Check it out on the Mixed Climbing page of this site.
Hope to see you there!
ArcteryxPartnership Arcteryx has committed to provide outerwear for R.I.S. clients to demo this winter. Softshells, belay jackets and more from the finest outerwear designers are available, stay tuned for details.
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